I guess I have to explain it.

When I was 15, my mom moved me to the French Quarter from suburban Cleveland Ohio (via a short stop in Mandeville). We had spent many summers in New Orleans and my mother, who had grown up in the Garden District, seemed to always find her way back to the Quarter when we came to town, even with the clear-as-bell disapproval from her parents. We never spent any time Uptown; somehow she had few memories of life there and less interest in showing it to us.
So, when we moved to the Quarter, she was in her own heaven and at the same time, loosened her hold on me, so it is pretty obvious why I initially liked being there. But soon I realized this was a special neighborhood of deep history and lively city street activity and that it suited me personally. I roamed every day and some nights and met shopkeepers, proper ladies, street-walker, schoolteachers, hustlers, nuns, old old people who sat on their stoops on sunny mornings, workers who told me gossip while they swept, artists who started the day with a drink at the dark bar nearest to their room, transient people who told very little about themselves and many more Herbert Asbury and Frances Parkinson-Keyes types.
I learned to have tolerance; that was not something that had been shown to me in suburban Cleveland, even though my mother heroically tried to overcome that culture with her own New Orleans attitude. I also learned about the entire city and its history both old and newer. Like the immigrants and states and nations and all of the companion events sweeping over us, as they do…
So I write about the French Quarter because I think it represents some of the best things about city life and has some fractures that, if we mend them, we could once again have a completely dynamic city center that everyone uses at some point.
So when a colleague this week said with a laugh (about the French Quarter) as we were discussing neighborhoods , “Oh that’s not real New Orleans”, I heard it with a pang. I realize again and again when I tell people I am writing about the Quarter, many think why? How is that valid?
I think it is for the reasons above and for these:

Small businesses are the real life of any region; they show ingenuity and application in a single space. I learned about what we made and what we valued here from watching those businesses.

Food is a significant part of our city diary. Check out the offerings that span the culture in that one neighborhood.

Conversations teach: Sit in a spot in 3 or 4 different times in a single week. You will see a cross-section of the city go by and hear some amazing conversations.

24 hours, 7 days a week. It has that going for it.

Public space is necessary: Tahrir Square showed us the significance of the use of public space. We may never have to resort to that (well let’s not say never), but our public square is around 120 blocks large and sits along the river, waiting for you to use it. If and when you need it.

As for tourists, they are some of the lifeblood of the city’s economy along with the port. I know almost nothing about the port, but I talk with America and share thoughts and disagreements constantly as they come to admire our city. I wish we had better things to offer in the Quarter for all of us to mingle and know each other, so that is also why I work to make it better. And don’t forget many of those tourists are interested in more than beads and hurricanes, they might actually offer something. Lucky for us millions come to visit us.

And finally, because it’s the right scale. I can walk the entire Quarter in a few hours (and have done it many times). I can find parts that are quieter than City Park, livelier than Frenchman (well on a Thursday; nothing compares with Saturday there), more beautiful than St. Charles (age has its advantage), more radical than Bywater and so on. I don’t mean to compare but for those who ask why the French Quarter, I guess I have to.
Those blocks signify New Orleans, my own family’s history, my history, the bad and good of city life, and the potential, too.

I hope that helps.

Movies, 3

The Historic New Orleans Collection presents three screenings in conjunction with the exhibition Drawn to Life: Al Hirschfeld and the Theater of Tennessee Williams.

Sunday, March 13, 2 p.m.
The Line King: The Al Hirschfeld Story
An Academy Award-nominated documentary by Susan Warms Dryfoos, The Line King celebrates Hirschfeld’s many years of work for the New York Times, where his drawings were a centerpiece of the Sunday Arts section. With appearances by Lauren Bacall, Robert Goulet, and many others, The Line King is a fascinating portrait of the artist as a cultural icon. (1996; 86 minutes; not rated)
The exhibition will be open 12:30–4:30 p.m.

Sunday, March 20, 2 p.m.
The Fugitive Kind
Sidney Lumet’s stirring drama The Fugitive Kind (based on Tennessee Williams’s play Orpheus Descending) features Marlon Brando as a drifter who wanders into a small town in Mississippi and falls into a tragic love affair. Following the screening, Mark Cave, curator of manuscripts/oral historian at The Collection and co-curator of Drawn to Life, will discuss the film and the display. (1960; 120 minutes; not rated)
The exhibition will be open 12:30–4:30 p.m.

Tuesday, March 22, 6:30 p.m.
Journalist and anchor Eric Paulsen’s 1981 interview with Tennessee Williams
Noted news anchor Eric Paulsen conducted the final in-depth broadcast interview with Tennessee Williams in 1981, roughly two years before the playwright’s death. After the screening, Paulsen will discuss the interview and take questions from the audience. (1981; 47 minutes; not rated)
The exhibition will be open 9:30 a.m.–8 p.m.

Eris parade

Even though much of the Eris parade situation did not occur in the French Quarter, it does have a bearing on it. In this first link, the organizers talk about how they rerouted the parade to not go to Jackson Square because they could sense the tension from the idea of downtown artists coming to parade in the old city.
organizer interview
Second is the video of a police officer telling someone to put the camera down while they were doing what a citizen should do:
Eris/NOPD

And lastly, the NOPD (including the 8th District) is in this paraders account of his arrest:
Eris parader account

All I can say at this point (as we watch to see how this unfolds) is that we all need to take a deep breath, count the many ways that the creative culture makes this city thrive and do what we can to support more dynamic artist activity in the French Quarter and nearby neighborhoods.

3 pictures from today

I think it’s impossible to capture the true diversity of uses on Mardi Gras day of the French Quarter. Let me just give you three very quiet ones from early in the morning: Very clean streets, a bike parade and the “best in show” award once again for house decoration in the Quarter.
Other than that, I hope you saw it for yourself.

Tennessee in New Orleans

One of the most enjoyable weekends for the French Quarter is almost upon us. The Tennessee Williams Literary Festival is a treat for readers, writers, theater-goers, movie buffs, New Orleans historians, mint julep aficionados, good food and talk enthusiasts, and public spectacle lovers (see Stella and Stanley contest).
I have been attending and/or volunteering for over 10 years and find that I add 3-4 useful things to my brain every year, while also enjoying the camaraderie of being with artists of every stripe in one lovely, walkable area of the city.
The headquarters will be at the Royal Sonesta this year with events scattered throughout the old city as always. I am glad to see the Williams Research Center on the venue list; more people need to get through those doors to see their exhibits.
I think the best deal is the weekend literary panel pass, but this year I have added the Southern Rep’s world premiere of 3 one-act plays from Mr. Williams (introduced by Zoe Caldwell), and a master class on Friday morning. Take a sick day to get your artistic health renewed….
http://www.tennesseewilliams.net/

Just look at that face; How can you not want to find at least one thing to attend this year and/or to simply donate to support our brilliant arts community while honoring the legacy of our favorite adopted son?

Myth, Mayhem & Majesty

The Historic New Orleans Collection has a wonderful exhibit on Mardi Gras up right now. Don’t miss it. Daily, at 2 pm. Free for members, $5 for all other comers. Learn about Mardi Gras history from its earliest days through the 20th century. I bet you can learn something…