One of the good things about having friends working on Treme (the HBO show) is that they get out and experience the city in ways that non-Hollywood people sometimes forget to. Last night, after ‘tit Rәx and drinks at Cosimo’s, E and I went to see if we could squeeze in this newish place on Chartres (where the bakery La Marquise used to be, a few doors back of Le Petit Theater- or what’s left of the theater!) for dinner. Since she often goes there with her T coworkers, she got us in quickly and also could recommend items from the menu.
We started with drinks- me, a Moscow Mule (which is showing up on menus all over town all of a sudden) and she a French 75 (another favorite of mine) along with a fried eggplant appetizer (nice lemon tang) to start. Then to the shaved brussel sprout salad (good) and my entree, the duck confit with black-eyed peas and Maras farm sprouts (seemed odd to call them that- is Gerard still growing sprouts? I thought not…) and a nice bourbon mustard. E had the roasted beets on bruschetta which she thought had slightly overcooked bruschetta, so they agreeably toasted some new ones for her. We added another drink that was a pleasant gin based cocktail with orange slice (did not catch the name or the recipe) near the end. All very good, service was excellent and even though crowded, the place has a nice ambience and not overly smushed (even with people chatting up the Hollywood actor 2 tables down who was in for dinner.) So, a pleasant end to a pleasant day, and another restaurant to recommend in the Quarter and some duck for brunch today while Barkus rolls past.
Category Archives: restaurants/food
Gumbo
A classic version found on the corner of St. Ann and Chartres (aka Jackson Square). Stanley’s gumbo has loads of meat and seafood amid a nice dark roux that’s not too thick. That they offer the added potato salad is nice: I have turned some heads in parts of the city that don’t believe in potato salad in the gumbo, but once in a while I like it. I learned about it at a demonstration at the old Wednesday Crescent City Farmers Market by Wayne Baquet, the Creole restauranteur of Lil Dizzy’s and Zachary’s fame even though he says in this interview with Sara Roahen that he doesn’t use it.
Southern Gumbo Trail oral interview
To get to the city unfortunately, means going through our airport for most visitors. A more disappointing experience would be hard to imagine, since the food and leisure space there is pitiful. On top of that, the politics of the selection process for the concession contracts give us a constant reminder of the old boy corruption that we live with here.
I say the corporation that runs the airport should be advised by the entrepreneurs that run places in the French Quarter, who work constantly to serve the locals and tourists. Okay, maybe not the folks who run the French Market, but those little shops and restaurants that actually work to bring joy and pleasure to travelers and residents alike.
To get started, let’s get at least 1 place in each concourse that is open before 7 a.m. and serves a decent cup of coffee in a city that loves the stuff.
Looks like Le Petit will be halved
I am not sure what I would do if I had to save it, but I do wonder how a restaurant can coexist in that small space with a theater, AND that tight corner at Jackson Square AND getting deliveries AND the noise and Square life right there…
I wish everyone well with this endeavor, but there is no turning back once done. I think the Brennans know what they are doing most of the time. I hope this is one of those times.
Original post:
First story
FAQ about the sale from Le Petit Theatre website:
Dickie Brennan buys 1/2 of Le Petit Theater
Any addition to Antoine’s is welcome
On Royal Street, there are some truisms:
1. stuff is expensive.
2. shade is unlikely
3. good public places to sit are taken quickly by musicians and audiences.
So, every time a new place that seems like it might balance one, two or all of the above, I make a beeline for it. The latest is Antoine’s Annex, the coffeehouse brought to us by our oldest restaurant. Just as the Hermes Bar has been such a hit (their newish bar with street entrance which has available Antoine’s appetizers on their menu), it’s likely this Royal Street annex will be too.
I have gone three times since it opened, and I will say the early excitement from the staff seems to have waned. They spent loads of time explaining the pastries back in the day and proudly showing the place itself. Of course, it was a bit much to take when one just wants an espresso and a seat but it was still appreciated.
The pastry case has gotten lighter or has less choices. I mean I didn’t count them, but I remember 2-3 things the first few times I thought looked interesting (and bought one once I remember) but the last 2 times nothing appealed from the case. And I believe it’s all done in-house too so I hope they continue to push the boundaries on pastries- especially with Croissant d’Or’s new owners disappointing so many locals who used to get their croissants, Napoleons and baguettes on Ursulines.
Please Antoine’s Annex, go a little crazy and wow us on the desserts.
The coffee was good; it’s true that cafe au lait is a tough mistress to master in New Orleans, as locals have so many memories and places with which to compare it. I am always unhappy when coffee is served from airpots, as it means it is meant to stay hot longer than it stays fresh in those things. I did see a nice steam but again, am not sure baristas can tell by eyes only when the temperature is perfect as the milk needs to be just below boiling for locals. Their espresso is also fine or good enough (I wonder about the quality of the beans they use), and in all cases the cups used are right and lovely and not just heavy generic coffeehouse stock. And the many flavors offered for espresso was a nice touch.
As for the gelato, they looked okay, but I so appreciate the La Divina local fruit gelato or Brocato’s ice cream, that I have a hard time accepting their small selection as the best they can do. But I promise to come back on a hot evening this month and try one fair and square.
The real treat is the decor and work put into the place. Beautiful. As Royal is as good a place as any to people watch, sit and do that.
Their patio is fine too although it would be nice if the staff would take 5 steps to the street to accept their mobile phone calls and leave the small outside area for sitting and face-to-face level conversations.
But I say let’s keep going and simply ask for more from our Antoine’s. They can handle it.
a nice respite from the street while staying in touch with it.
The story of Stanley and Stella
In restaurant form that is.
A classic New Orleans story with food as the central character. Scott Boswell, a young chef who is serious about his ongoing training, owns these restaurants with his wife Tanya. Scott is found at Stella’s working the kitchen (when he’s not traveling to restaurants to offer himself as a free apprentice) and Tanya can be seen daily at Stanley’s working the door and watching the entire place.
Both restaurants serve excellent food. Stella’s is award-winning and pretty expensive, but even with the deep pocket needed to go there,I can’t count how many times I have heard that this was the favorite meal of visitors and some locals who hit all of the top ones. Many times.
I know the chef and his wife from their stalwart support of the Crescent City Farmers Market, where I work. We opened a 4th location a few years before Katrina and they did anything they could do to support it. We’ll never forget it.
I like these folks because they are Quarter residents and real workers and committed to a scale of production, service and ambience that has made the city what it is.
(Now I have a friend who is not very happy with them and feels slighted in every way; she’s a savvy local who has loads of patience for quirks but got bad service and a worse response after, so I sorrowfully acknowledge that too. It’s the only version I have heard of that story, but she is pretty sore with them now.)
My experience has been great and now they have added a Stanley’s service bar right next door on the Square and so a tip of my cap again is in order. Espresso, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches in a beautifully designed storefront. Some work remains to do to get it all done but if you’re out at 8 am til evening in the area, go try the coffee or ice cream and then go have a eggs hollandaise poboy next door.
And revel in the culture renewing itself in the oldest part of the city, thanks to entrepreneurs like Scott and Tanya..
The newest addition to the Pontalba family. Espresso, pastries and ice cream from 8-7ish daily.
French Quarter block by block 
You must be logged in to post a comment.