Barkus is a game changer

Before my time, parades used to roll through the French Quarter. Well, really before my time they used to roll through lots of neighborhoods…
Now, one has to mosey to the Uptown side of things or at least stand on the dividing line to participate in float parades, except for Endymion (held downtown of Canal-for a few blocks anyway). However, I stay far from that Mid City mess held on the last Saturday before Fat Tuesday. To explain my p.o.v., just know that some groups start to camp out on the Thursday before Endymion and that it seems to celebrate white middle class New Orleans more than any other parade in the city. And even though I am in that number, I know we have no proud history of adding much to Mardi Gras, music or food around here. So, when we throw a parade, you can expect it to be loud, big and lacking some finesse. So good luck to those brave enough to make it. Me, I wish ol Endymion would find that long sleep again.
My schedule is usually seeing 1-3 parades and 1 of them is one of the 2 walking parades in the French Quarter. Barkus is almost always the choice.
What I like about it:
1. It benefits a worthy cause-pet rescue and allows any brave dog owners to participate.
2. It is the right scale. Those folks have to stay sober enough to walk miles with their dogs but drunk enough to wear feathers or shirts that match them.
3. It has a sense of humor. South Pawcific?
4. It’s over before dinner time.
I have been watching it recently from a friend’s place on Saint Ann to watch the crowds. Some of us sit on the balcony, some of us draw up chairs on the ground, chatting with anyone near enough to be caught. What I have noticed is that much like French Quarter Festival, it seems to be bringing in locals who spend the day roaming the Quarter and reacquainting themselves with it. I see groups of people chatting for hours, sitting with a beer and their chair set up in the sun. Children are very plentiful and the Barkus participants keep an eye out for them to bestow their trinkets first.

Many parades are somewhat hierarchical: we sit waiting for the masked riders to roll by hoping to catch their eye or their ear. As glorious as they can be, they can also be passive and maybe even a little cruel. I find the walking parades much more interactive and personal.
Really, it is one of the reasons why the Quarter remains useful: in a small way, like Tahrir Square, we use it to perambulate and to connect and if we need to, to protest. Lucky for us, a change in government is possible here with peaceful transitions.
I contend that the reason we came through our most recent federal disaster with so little strife among the citizenry was that we have this release every year we call Carnival season. It forces us to meet new people, and allows us to have the time to catch up with old friends in detail. We laugh at bad puns together, cheer a good throw or catch and generally get the anxiety and angst out.
And when we can do it in the middle of the old city with our best companions, what can be better?

Overheard in French Quarter

(man and wife crossing street illegally in front of line of traffic) “Hey, I always have the right of way!”

(man and wife with ignored map in hand) “I’m sure we’ll just run into it”

“I don’t mind runnin’ ragged for 3 hours if I’m only workin 5 hour shifts”

(loud person on phone) “I’m down here scouting locations for a movie, so I got time…”

“If you want rock, you got to be prepared to take off your clothes.”

“I don’t understand the psychology of sleeveless shirts.”

Excerpt from “A Friend in New Orleans” 1992

A great memory from an unusual travel book:

“Kaldi’s Coffee House and Coffee Museum

941 Decatur Street     568-8989

Open Sunday-Thursday 7 am to midnight

Friday-Saturday 7 am to 2:30 am

One of New Orleans most aromatic experiences is the stimulating fragrance of roasting coffee beans. Read the paper and rest your feet in this slightly counter-culture haven, while sampling an inspiring array of pungent brews. Their museum of coffee memorabilia is worth a look.”

I miss it still, but am glad for offspring Fair Grinds in MidCity!

Along the Banquette: French Quarter buildings and their stories

I recommend this odd little book on specific houses in the French Quarter. Written as individual columns for the neighborhood paper in the 1960s (and heavily edited for the book),  it made it to publication because friends and colleagues of the author, who were mostly members of the VCPORA, the leading  neighborhood association in the French Quarter perservered over a period of years to get it done.

It’s exactly what I like: idiosyncratic writing, charming drawings and no obvious reason for its selections of subjects. A meandering of the old city as it should be.

Found at Historic New Orleans Collection shop-lovely but a bit nerve racking to visit if you have large bags or quick children. Both should be left at the door with the hope that they are still sitting placidly when you return.

Do let the fine ladies at the register know (quickly) if you are a member and deserve the discount; seems they are afraid to assume some of us grubby Quarter Rats might have a membership card!

Tennessee Williams was here

We’re just finishing up the latest festival for our most famous writer.  Not cheap to attend, but probably worth it, if you are a writer or a reader on New Orleans or the South. Nice website: it’s in my links on the right.

What I know about him-off the top of my head:

Came here from St. Louis to get a job on the WPA Writer’s Project: was not hired by Lyle Saxon. Came back and lived on Toulouse, then on Orleans then on Dumaine.

Lived in Key West later in life.

Poker Night was the original name for the play Streetcar Named Desire. The Desire streetcar started running in 1920, and traveled down Decatur, through the French Market, over to Royal, then right on Canal and right again on Bourbon to head to Desire. Streetcar was shut down the year or year after the play opened on Broadway.

Had a party where the landlady poured hot water through the floorboards to quiet everyone down.

He said:

“There are only 3 cities in the United States-New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. The rest is just Cleveland.”