Marcello Properties

Cafe Envie, owned by Marcello Properties

Carlos Marcello: Big Daddy In

The Big Easy (excerpt)

By the late 1940’s, Carlos had established his headquarters in a bar and restaurant that came to be known as Willswood Tavern. It sat on Highway 90, about fifteen miles west of New Orleans on the West Bank in Jefferson Parish. He would hold court here, meeting up with the men who ran his empire, dispensing justice to the unruly. He owned 6400 acres of swampland that spread away from the inn with lots of unique and handy bayous to hide bodies. After business, he would entertain his people on a lavish scale. A man with a gargantuan appetite, he imported a chef from Chicago, an ex-convict who had apparently been the personal cook of Al Capone. His name was Provino Mosca and his Italian cooking became legend in the area. Carlos built a small house near the tavern for the chef and his wife and son, and when it was time to move his head office elsewhere, Carlos left the tavern for his chef to continue operating under the management of his mother Louise, who by now had become widowed. Today Mosca’s son John runs the business know as Mosca’s, at 4137 Highway 90, Waggaman, producing food equally as delicious as his father did before him. Their two crab salads, garlic shrimp and chicken [a la grande] is food to die for, which not doubt may well have been the case fifty years ago for some of the visitors to this tavern on the green.

His illegal capital funded motels, restaurants, banks, beer and liquor stores, taxi and bus firms, shrimping fleets, gas stations, the list was endless. He claimed however, that he was simply a salesman for the Pelican Tomato Company and earned $1500 a month. On paper he was, and the fact that he also indirectly owned the company, whose biggest customer was the U.S. Navy, was incidental.

Carlos Marcello, owner of a tomato company and considered the Godfather of New Orleans crime was convicted on federal charges in the 1980s although the convictions were later thrown after he served over 6 years. He retired to old Metairie and died in the 1990s, with property throughout the French Quarter and regional area still under the family control.

Muffalettas and catfish

Serious question: is there good food to be found in the French Quarter under 10.00?

Answer: yes.

Today, I went to the French Market to buy chopsticks ( I also buy my sunglasses, luggage, wallets and a few other things, quite a useful place when you get over the longing for the lost farmers market there) and when I left, I walked down Decatur to Central and got a half muffaletta, then scootered to Matassa’s for baked catfish, baked mac and green beans.

Took them both home to divide up into meals, and I have probably 4.5 meals here.

7.63 at Central

9 something at Matassa’s.

catfish looks great (see picture) and seems like 2.5 meals to me, based on past experience with their food.

As for the muffaletta, I will take a quarter when I go kayaking and sitting on bayou st john tomorrow with a beer and that sandwich with my feet up. the other quarter will probably be lunch on Sunday with another beer, after gardening.

All done in the lower Quarter, which means parking along the levee/Mint.  Dodging the slow folks on Decatur and wondering who all those crazy ass people that are sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on a beautiful day, instead of walking from a few blocks away.

2.5 meals from one order of baked catfish, baked mac and green beans.

Excerpt from “A Friend in New Orleans” 1992

A great memory from an unusual travel book:

“Kaldi’s Coffee House and Coffee Museum

941 Decatur Street     568-8989

Open Sunday-Thursday 7 am to midnight

Friday-Saturday 7 am to 2:30 am

One of New Orleans most aromatic experiences is the stimulating fragrance of roasting coffee beans. Read the paper and rest your feet in this slightly counter-culture haven, while sampling an inspiring array of pungent brews. Their museum of coffee memorabilia is worth a look.”

I miss it still, but am glad for offspring Fair Grinds in MidCity!

Along the Banquette: French Quarter buildings and their stories

I recommend this odd little book on specific houses in the French Quarter. Written as individual columns for the neighborhood paper in the 1960s (and heavily edited for the book),  it made it to publication because friends and colleagues of the author, who were mostly members of the VCPORA, the leading  neighborhood association in the French Quarter perservered over a period of years to get it done.

It’s exactly what I like: idiosyncratic writing, charming drawings and no obvious reason for its selections of subjects. A meandering of the old city as it should be.

Found at Historic New Orleans Collection shop-lovely but a bit nerve racking to visit if you have large bags or quick children. Both should be left at the door with the hope that they are still sitting placidly when you return.

Do let the fine ladies at the register know (quickly) if you are a member and deserve the discount; seems they are afraid to assume some of us grubby Quarter Rats might have a membership card!

Tennessee Williams was here

We’re just finishing up the latest festival for our most famous writer.  Not cheap to attend, but probably worth it, if you are a writer or a reader on New Orleans or the South. Nice website: it’s in my links on the right.

What I know about him-off the top of my head:

Came here from St. Louis to get a job on the WPA Writer’s Project: was not hired by Lyle Saxon. Came back and lived on Toulouse, then on Orleans then on Dumaine.

Lived in Key West later in life.

Poker Night was the original name for the play Streetcar Named Desire. The Desire streetcar started running in 1920, and traveled down Decatur, through the French Market, over to Royal, then right on Canal and right again on Bourbon to head to Desire. Streetcar was shut down the year or year after the play opened on Broadway.

Had a party where the landlady poured hot water through the floorboards to quiet everyone down.

He said:

“There are only 3 cities in the United States-New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. The rest is just Cleveland.”

Welcome to NO Block by Block (NObxb)

Hey old and new fans of our city. I have devoted many of the past years to living in this lovely, messy chaotic city and am glad of it. Now, I am redoubling my effort to illuminate its particular charm for others and for me with this blog.

I have been writing about my alternative,  sometimes underground part of the city for a while (neworleanscanthrive.blogspot.com). The purpose of this blog (and the corresponding yet unpublished pieces written offline) will be to chart parts of the city block by block with written history, fables overheard, stories believed.

Starting with the French Quarter, but adding others as we go.

I say we because I put it out to you to add your pieces to this blog as you wish. I am looking for collaborators of news and bits of opinion which could end up in the published work (with your credit firmly established).

Or you could just point me in the right direction….

Ironwork