Can you see the beginnings of bureaucracy?

1883 Prohibiting any vehicle to drive at a faster gait than a walk in passing in front of French Market from Ursuline to St. Ann Streets during market hours.
1882 Prohibiting any piroge, lugger, flat boat or other small craft from selling produce from Esplanade Avenue to St. Ann Street without paying $1.00 per day.
1884 Forbidding the keeping for sale any fruit, fish, vegetables or fowls in any close building occupied in the past as a dwelling.
1891 Prohibiting the establishment of private markets without the permission of the Council.
1900 Regulating the governing of private markets, etc. Prohibiting the sale of oysters in public markets, and meat and vegetables in stores within 3200 ft.
1906 Regulating the sale of shrimps and crabs in the markets of the city after certain hours.
1934 Accepting the bid of the French Market Corporation for the privilege of operating the French Market and the lease-hold of French Market properties.
1936 Prohibiting the sale of intoxicating liquors within close proximity of the Farmers’ Market at French Market.
1936 Designating the type of refrigeration to be installed in the various units of the French Market.
Markets
1937 Providing rules and regulations governing the operation of the new Farmers’ Market at French Market.

Verti Marte brethren

So, as we wait for one of our standbys to reopen in the French Quarter after the fire that took out Verti Marte last month, do see some of the others that have food and characters meanwhile:
Matassa’s (St. Philip and Dauphine). Louis and Johnny are usually hanging out in front while in back (watch that bump by the dairy counter) they’re cooking up solid meals. Beans, chicken, catfish and much more.
Quartermaster, better known as the Nelly Deli (Ursuline and Bourbon)- their sides are tasty; burgers, lasagna too. I think their breakfast is really great to take over to the Moonwalk with a Cafe au Lait from CdM on your way.
St. Peter St. (between Royal and Bourbon) has some stuff too now with Yo Mama’s famous burgers there and a rejuvenated Rouse’s Supermarket (I laugh when I hear complaints about higher prices for the food there- we’re talking less than 30 cents usually, if at all and they have brought more fresh foods, some local and a much cleaner store to the very small population of the FQ. Work with them and make it better by asking for items you don’t see and comparing prices).
Some items at the store at St. Philip and Royal can be good (red beans are usually excellent) but look closely as their food dries out under those lights.
Felipe’s on Decatur is a cheap good meal, especially when you get there during happy hour for your drinks.
Deja Vu’s food counter can be an incredible deal; spaghetti is usually very good.
Basically, all of these have to go menus that give you at least 2 meals worth of food for under 10 bucks.

Cafe Amelie

Grabbing some wifi at CC’s on St. Philip just now, I ran into the chef from Cafe Amelie, Jerry Mixon who was picking up some caffeine to start his and Danny’s day at the restaurant. This restaurant is a jewel in the middle of the French Quarter and the history of the Princess of Monaco courtyard (that it sits in) is fascinating. This was Prince Albert’s wife (the one from the 1880s, not the son of Grace Kelly). The Princess of Monaco was born as Alice Heine at 910 Royal; her family was instrumental in the cast iron balcony business. Cast iron was fashionable throughout the US in the 1840s and 1850s, but in New Orleans has remained so. Richard Campanella (social scientist, author of New Orleans Then and Now, Bienville’s Dilemma among others) has done research on cast iron work and theorizes that there was a bit of “Keeping up with the Jones” attitude in why you see more elaborate iron work, the closer you get to Jackson Square/wealthier homes.
Heinrich Heine, the well known, highly respected German-Jewish romantic poet & philosopher, was her great uncle. Like Baroness Pontalba, she did not enjoy married life and left the restrictive royal family life she married into and moved to Paris where she entertained artists and such at her salon in Paris. Her family tried to get part of her 6,000,000 dowry back from the Grimaldis but were unable. easy come easy go, I guess. Or maybe freedom is really just a word for nothin’ left to lose.

The hexagon tower seen from the front was commissioned by renowned architect Henry Howard. The courtyard is fabulous for sitting and eating Jerry’s wonderful gumbo with a cocktail in the evenings.

Royal Street- 1950s

Books, haunted corridor and corsets- all in one block

800 Chartres-

As you walk through the carnival that is Jackson Square (going away from Canal Street) you almost immediately enter a hushed and cool block. The side of Pontalba Apartments is interesting, and some of the balconies are lovely and actually used by real people.

Check out the beautiful downspouts at 830 Chartres; copper with the covered iron work at the person level with its open mouth at the street. Incredible.

This block of Chartres that is split by lovely little Madison Street is one of my favorites. Partly because I lived on Madison back in the wild 80s and sat on my balcony nursing any number of hangovers while looking at Chartres. Possibly also because one of my favorite bookstores is there- Librairie is one of the older used bookstores still in existence (my memory is that it opened in 84 or so) , and I think I found my prized copy of Anita Loos’ Cast of Thousands and all of my Cornelia Otis Skinner books there. Part of a weird collection I had.
It’s the neatest (meaning things are shelved) of all of them and I believe is run by Beckham’s Books owner, the other great bookstore in the Quarter that goes back a long ways. That one (Beckham’s) is the best on a rainy Saturday.
I also like the mix of facades and the little shops like Trashy Diva. Perfect for the Quarter. Both Divas and Spicy and Dark, and Ragin Daisy’s second place that is opening soon in that block (I still miss that Chinese laundry) and a couple of others lovely clothing stores that I of course don’t shop at, but are pretty cool to have all there in a row. Think of it as Girlie Way.

The corner of Dumaine and Chartres has the oldest set of intact row houses and was the site of the Conde Market in 1782. The wooden toy shop needs their display windows cleaned but is a very cool place to take kids or bored husbands by the looks of it.

The haunted part of the title comes from Muriel’s Restaurant’s corridor and second floor. Supposed to be haunted.
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“Romantic Beauregard-Keyes House” (so named in the brochure)

Built in 1826, this center hall raised home was later owned by St. Bernard Parish native General P.G.T. Beauregard.  By 1925, the house (across from the Ursuline convent) was in such disrepair, it was slated to be torn down to be a macaroni factory.  Saved by some nice ladies, it was bought by novelist Frances Parkinson Keyes (pronounce as K followed by “eyes”) who finished it and lived here until a few days before her 85th birthday, passing away  in the back cottage that she had rebuilt as a modern apartment.

She wrote 51 books, most famously “Dinner at Antoines”. She made the old courtyard kitchen into her office downstairs with an upstairs apartment. Interestingly, well-known jeweler Mignon Faget was her first tenant.

A private foundation struggles to maintain the house and side garden.

She liked lots of ice in her tea.

FPK’s published books (top shelf)

tour at house; Nancy in foreground (doing research for her book)

St. Mark’s Methodist Church

Upon entering the Quarter via a left turn from Rampart to Gov Nicholls, one usually has eyes up ahead rather than on the corner. But if you happen to look to the right after turning, you would see a Spanish mission style church from the side and back. As to why the Methodists built it in that style to serve Italian immigrants, is unknown. From St. Mark’s website:

Following the settlement house model, Methodist women moved into a neighborhood to live with and assist people in need. They selected the name, St. Mark, the patron saint of Venice, Italy, as a gesture of outreach to Italian Catholics who dominated the area at the time. An emphasis on outreach, empathy and cutting-edge ministry has characterized St. Mark’s ever since. The current church at 1130 North Rampart, at the edge of the historic French Quarter, opened in 1923. In its hundred-year history, St. Mark’s has experienced many “firsts.” In the early twentieth century, people from over twenty-five different nationalities participated in St. Mark’s programs. In the 1930s, St. Mark’s offered health and dental services that were open to people of all races and ethnicities. The Community Center operated the first indoor pool in the city, also integrated. The church and community center fully integrated in the 1960s. Its pastor, the Reverend Andy Foreman, was featured in international newspapers as he walked with his daughter Pamela to one of the first integrated elementary schools in New Orleans. In 1973, a horrible fire resulted in the deaths of twenty-five people in a gay bar, the Upstairs Lounge; no church in New Orleans would hold a memorial service for the victims. St. Mark’s stepped forward, and opened its doors.

(as to the memorial after the fire at Upstairs Lounge, historians of gay New Orleans remember it a bit differently:

Only one member of the New Orleans’ clergy, The Rev. William Richardson of St. George’s Episcopal Church, was brave and GOD loving enough to immediately hold a service for the victims of this horriffic event and their families. Almost a week later, St. Mark’s United Methodist Church allowed Rev. Perry to hold a memorial service.

excerpted from http://www.gayworld.net/memorial/

The poor who lived in the French Quarter through much of the 19th and early 20th century have been served by a number of missionary types.

In 1727 twelve women — Ursuline Nuns from France — established the first school for girls, ran the first free school and the first orphanage and held the first classes for African slave and Native American girls in what is now the United States. The Ursulines still serve New Orleans (from their Jefferson Avenue campus and girl’s high school) and are are believed  to keep hurricanes away from the city by praying to Our Lady of Prompt Succor. When Katrina hit and word came that the Ursuline nuns would be evacuated, many felt it was a very bad sign. Upon returning to the city, the Mother Superior was interviewed on NPR and asked to explain why the prayers were unanswered in 2005. She answered that the damage was a engineering disaster caused by the federal government and not a natural disaster which is what her nuns have prayed away for almost 300 years.

Our Lady of Guadalupe is another site still in use to serve the poor (like St. Mark’s). (from http://www.neworleanschurches.com/):

Our Lady Of Guadalupe Church is actually the oldest church building in New Orleans. Saint Louis Cathedral is often thought to be the City’s original church, however, the Cathedral building was rebuilt during its lifetime.  The building known as The Mortuary Chapel of St. Anthony Of Padua, is located on the corner of North Rampart Street and Conti. It dates from 1826, some 25 years before the present St. Louis Cathedral was constructed.  Although the church had been temporarily closed a number of times in its lifetime, it was many things to many people.

During the span of almost two centuries, The Mortuary Chapel was first constructed to hold funerals of Yellow Fever victims. In the era predating modern science, medical practitioners once believed that Yellow Fever could be spread by exposure to the dead or by transporting the dead through the city streets for burial. The Church therefore banned burials from St. Louis Cathedral and a mortuary chapel was established close to St. Louis Cemetery, the main burial location for most of New Orleans Catholic families.

The community center on the river side of Conti and Rampart is still very active.

St. Mary’s is located next to the historic Ursuline Convent (considered by some to be the oldest building in the city). St.  Mary’s  served the Italians who populated much of that part of the French Quarter during the first half of the 20th century after serving other ethnic groups at various times.

Settlement houses abounded in the U.S where “settlement workers” lived among the poor they served- Hull House in Chicago was the most famous and its founder Jane Addams was a mentor to many including Eleanor McMain, who ran Kingsley House on Constance Street for many years and made it a center of innovative programs. Kingsley House  is the oldest settlement house in the south and is still active in the lower Garden District.