Desire streetcar ran down Decatur through the French Market, over to Royal and down to Canal, then back down Bourbon.
"They told me to take a streetcar named Desire, and then transfer to one called Cemeteries and ride six blocks and get off at Elysian Fields" Blanche DuBois "A Streetcar Named Desire", 1947
One of the brightest lights that has been added to the French Quarter and downtown cafe scene over the last few years is the Tales of the Cocktail festival. True to the New Orleanian spirit of expecting tasty drinks at every event (yes even breakfast), they hold interesting and fun events that teach and inspire at the same time.
I attended the first, but have often found myself on work trips at the same time this is held since. THIS year, no trips planned so am looking forward to many of their events- although they sell out fast!
And I do, I do encourage you to spend some of your cocktail and food budget on this, there are quite a few free events to attend:
http://talesofthecocktail.com/events/complimentary_events
What I like about our festivals is that the good ones are directly tied to preserving and expanding our culture and TOTC is one of the best on that level as well.
The New Orleans Culinary and Cultural Preservation Society is a non-profit organization committed to preserving the unique culture of dining and drinking in New Orleans and the storied bars and restaurants that have contributed to the city's world-wide culinary acclaim. This organization supports members of the hospitality industry through education and the production of events like Tales of the Cocktail and, most recently, Trails of the Cocktail, a scholarship program for emerging talent in the New Orleans cocktail industry.
Held at the lovely Monteleone Hotel, its easy to get there and then get around to the other venues from there.
So, bring a go cup and some time to sip.
1883 Prohibiting any vehicle to drive at a faster gait than a walk in passing in front of French Market from Ursuline to St. Ann Streets during market hours.
1882 Prohibiting any piroge, lugger, flat boat or other small craft from selling produce from Esplanade Avenue to St. Ann Street without paying $1.00 per day.
1884 Forbidding the keeping for sale any fruit, fish, vegetables or fowls in any close building occupied in the past as a dwelling.
1891 Prohibiting the establishment of private markets without the permission of the Council.
1900 Regulating the governing of private markets, etc. Prohibiting the sale of oysters in public markets, and meat and vegetables in stores within 3200 ft.
1906 Regulating the sale of shrimps and crabs in the markets of the city after certain hours.
1934 Accepting the bid of the French Market Corporation for the privilege of operating the French Market and the lease-hold of French Market properties.
1936 Prohibiting the sale of intoxicating liquors within close proximity of the Farmers’ Market at French Market.
1936 Designating the type of refrigeration to be installed in the various units of the French Market.
Markets
1937 Providing rules and regulations governing the operation of the new Farmers’ Market at French Market.
So, as we wait for one of our standbys to reopen in the French Quarter after the fire that took out Verti Marte last month, do see some of the others that have food and characters meanwhile:
Matassa’s (St. Philip and Dauphine). Louis and Johnny are usually hanging out in front while in back (watch that bump by the dairy counter) they’re cooking up solid meals. Beans, chicken, catfish and much more.
Quartermaster, better known as the Nelly Deli (Ursuline and Bourbon)- their sides are tasty; burgers, lasagna too. I think their breakfast is really great to take over to the Moonwalk with a Cafe au Lait from CdM on your way.
St. Peter St. (between Royal and Bourbon) has some stuff too now with Yo Mama’s famous burgers there and a rejuvenated Rouse’s Supermarket (I laugh when I hear complaints about higher prices for the food there- we’re talking less than 30 cents usually, if at all and they have brought more fresh foods, some local and a much cleaner store to the very small population of the FQ. Work with them and make it better by asking for items you don’t see and comparing prices).
Some items at the store at St. Philip and Royal can be good (red beans are usually excellent) but look closely as their food dries out under those lights.
Felipe’s on Decatur is a cheap good meal, especially when you get there during happy hour for your drinks.
Deja Vu’s food counter can be an incredible deal; spaghetti is usually very good.
Basically, all of these have to go menus that give you at least 2 meals worth of food for under 10 bucks.
Grabbing some wifi at CC’s on St. Philip just now, I ran into the chef from Cafe Amelie, Jerry Mixon who was picking up some caffeine to start his and Danny’s day at the restaurant. This restaurant is a jewel in the middle of the French Quarter and the history of the Princess of Monaco courtyard (that it sits in) is fascinating. This was Prince Albert’s wife (the one from the 1880s, not the son of Grace Kelly). The Princess of Monaco was born as Alice Heine at 910 Royal; her family was instrumental in the cast iron balcony business. Cast iron was fashionable throughout the US in the 1840s and 1850s, but in New Orleans has remained so. Richard Campanella (social scientist, author of New Orleans Then and Now, Bienville’s Dilemma among others) has done research on cast iron work and theorizes that there was a bit of “Keeping up with the Jones” attitude in why you see more elaborate iron work, the closer you get to Jackson Square/wealthier homes.
Heinrich Heine, the well known, highly respected German-Jewish romantic poet & philosopher, was her great uncle. Like Baroness Pontalba, she did not enjoy married life and left the restrictive royal family life she married into and moved to Paris where she entertained artists and such at her salon in Paris. Her family tried to get part of her 6,000,000 dowry back from the Grimaldis but were unable. easy come easy go, I guess. Or maybe freedom is really just a word for nothin’ left to lose.
The hexagon tower seen from the front was commissioned by renowned architect Henry Howard. The courtyard is fabulous for sitting and eating Jerry’s wonderful gumbo with a cocktail in the evenings.
French Quarter block by block 
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