Tennessee in New Orleans

One of the most enjoyable weekends for the French Quarter is almost upon us. The Tennessee Williams Literary Festival is a treat for readers, writers, theater-goers, movie buffs, New Orleans historians, mint julep aficionados, good food and talk enthusiasts, and public spectacle lovers (see Stella and Stanley contest).
I have been attending and/or volunteering for over 10 years and find that I add 3-4 useful things to my brain every year, while also enjoying the camaraderie of being with artists of every stripe in one lovely, walkable area of the city.
The headquarters will be at the Royal Sonesta this year with events scattered throughout the old city as always. I am glad to see the Williams Research Center on the venue list; more people need to get through those doors to see their exhibits.
I think the best deal is the weekend literary panel pass, but this year I have added the Southern Rep’s world premiere of 3 one-act plays from Mr. Williams (introduced by Zoe Caldwell), and a master class on Friday morning. Take a sick day to get your artistic health renewed….
http://www.tennesseewilliams.net/

Just look at that face; How can you not want to find at least one thing to attend this year and/or to simply donate to support our brilliant arts community while honoring the legacy of our favorite adopted son?

Myth, Mayhem & Majesty

The Historic New Orleans Collection has a wonderful exhibit on Mardi Gras up right now. Don’t miss it. Daily, at 2 pm. Free for members, $5 for all other comers. Learn about Mardi Gras history from its earliest days through the 20th century. I bet you can learn something…

I’m a big fan of these folks

One of the areas that we need to focus on in order to save our cities is how to bring the physical environment into everyday life, making a more useful, beautiful and integrated city. Richard Register has pioneered this method and this project is to get more of his illustrations out among planners and organizers. Do learn more about his work from this video and support if it resonates with you.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1842485778/ecocities-illustrated/widget/video.html

The Grand Duchess thinks about the Baroness

Over the last few weeks, there has been a back and forth about the Lower Pontalba rent prices. As many of you know, the Pontalba apartments are among the oldest in the country, having been built as apartments by Baroness Pontalba in the 1850s. As I have written before, you can see the inside of one by going to the 1850 museum in the middle of the lower block. It’s a self-guided tour with an apartment set up as it would have been in the 1850s (maybe they lived without the groaning a/c) and has some plaques explaining some of the family history of those who lived there then. The city manages the uptown side of things and this management falls under the French Market Corporation which has been having its own upheaval recently.
Rental prices are being debated for these treasures, since the councilwoman  has found out that they are rented well below the market rate for apts like that AND should be primary dwellings, which anyone who spends any time on the Square can tell you few are. Lights are generally on at most of them only a few days a year, and I assume you know which days I am referring. CM Palmer has also found out that they of course are rented to very prominent people at these lucky rates. However, in all likelihood, a few rents will increase but things will go on the same for most people there. The truth is that at market rate, few people who live in New Orleans full-time can afford it.
Although I would love to have stopped and sat on a particular sunny balcony to chat with the Grand Duchess to hear her views personally, I knew she was leaving for a hurried trip to the Middle East this very week. I instead left a message on her machine that I looked forward to talking with her on this subject when she returned. A suspicion that she enjoys my offer to publish her views was confirmed with the speed of her reply: within a day a call came from her live-in, Maude. Miss Maude told me the GD had sat down and written something as she was leaving and handed it to her, asking her to call me to read it. Miss Maude apologized before starting as her sight is not what it was and “with the intricate handwriting…”
but I suspect she just about got it word for word .
“So Miss Dar, here is what she says”:
Residing at the Pontalba is a privilege. 1/4 of these to be set aside for long-term employees of the stores below and/or those who work at Cafe DuMonde and should cost 1/4 of their monthly rate of pay.
She also says:
Those who get this privilege should have the good sense to have loads of parties and invite artists and dancers and musicians and serve excellent food and strong liquor and let the friendly noise drift over the Square… And to festoon their balconies with lovely crepe paper and greenery, changed every season of course. Also, as it should be remembered that crime is an issue in our village, one dweller should act as the block captain for 6 months at a time. This captain should walk through the Square weekly, noting any broken or missing valuables. They should chat with the eyes of the square (artists, musicians and sun seekers) discussing their concerns as well.
P.S. And all should remember to take a strong cup of coffee outside every morning and drink it gratefully with a silent nod to our dear Baroness. Our own Micaela who always chose gaiety over decorum and would do it again if she could….

Your health,
Duchess.

The “at least one useful thing on every block of Bourbon” list

100-Bourbon House
200-Galatoire’s and the site of “Owen Brennan’s Vieux Carre” Restaurant, the original Brennan’s restaurant (moved to Royal in 1956).
300-Jazz Park resting place and bathrooms at the Royal Sonesta Hotel
400-Still looking
500-Chris Owens (both she and the club) and Ramada bathrooms
600- Pat O’s Courtyard, Michael (waiter at Sammy’s), Court of 2 Sisters Thruway, Congresswoman Lindy Boggs’ home til 2005.
700-Marie Laveau’s Voodoo Shop, Fritzel’s
800-Washing Well, Bourbon Pub, Oz
900-Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop (piano bar), Lafitte’s In Exile, Clover Grill
1000-Postal Emporium/Frame Shop
1100-The Nelly Deli
1200 -2 lovely magnolias over sidewalk
1300-Kingsway Studio, owned by Daniel Lanois in the 1990s as a recording studio for groups such as Emmylou Harris, the Neville Brothers, Pearl Jam, Peter Gabriel, R.E.M., Robbie Robertson, Sheryl Crow, Iggy Pop, Luscious Jackson, Cowboy Mouth, Joe Henry, and Michelle Shocked. Before that, it was the home of Germaine Wells, the original big-hatted French Quarter Easter Parade doyenne and operator of her family’s restaurant Arnaud’s.

not MY mama’s…

Sadly, I cannot recommend the peanut butter and bacon burger at Yo Mama’s. If they got a better bun, less peanut butter and more finesse on getting people’s cooking time right or even getting it close, I could change my mind. But why would they care about one or two or even four local people’s point of view.
They are, in tourist terms, in the catbird seat.
Bartenders are excellent. Tequila list looks good too. Bondage stuff is weird.