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Grand Duchess floats back to town

The last time I heard from the GD was during the French Quarter Festival, when her neighbor delivered a message to me from an alert Duchess, who spied me from her balcony. That post
As I know that the Duchess locks up her house for the summer and takes long trips east and west (“never South or North my dear; there’s been entirely too much traffic in THOSE directions over the years”), I was surprised when I noticed the curtains blowing out from her 3rd story. I rang the bell and was admitted warmly by her live-in, Miss Maude who looked fresh as a daisy in the 96 degrees, as all true New Orleans ladies do.
I knew to wait for the Duchess in the cool, darkish middle room on the second floor, which is where she receives guests in the summer. I sat in the large wicker chair after making myself a lemon ginger drink from the tall pitcher, mixed together with ice from the bar freezer and mint from her glorious garden.
garden description

I could hear the muted chatter from nearby streets and feel the fans churning above me. The second floor seems cooled by old-fashioned architecture and strategic breezes rather than too-large air conditioning machines (as the Duchess calls them).
I sat relaxing and cooling and opened my eyes when I smelled verbena. The Duchess had entered and was shooing one of the fattest of her cats to the next room. Soon after, she sat in her usual straight-backed chair across from me.
“I am surprised to see you home in the summer, Duchess”
We believe that in moments of high drama, our citizens need us to be alert.
“I assume you are referring to the historic river levels?”
We are referring to the Mississippi and Atchafalaya river levels, yes. It is our wish that no one suffers on behalf of the village’s residents, but unfortunately, this time some will suffer to save the old city. We hope that our cousins in the Louisiana provinces know that our gratitude and empathy rises to them at this time
“Do you believe the levees will hold?”
We have personally inspected the levee in our village and believe it is safe. However, I cannot vouchsafe for the other villages surrounding ours and hope their royal servants are taking their citizens safety seriously.
“Duchess, I do not believe the other neighborhoods have a Duke or Duchess such as yourself that watch over them.”
(She looked at me sharply as if to gauge my seriousness and then shook her head sorrowfully)
If that is true, our concern is profound for those places. We hope that someday they can restore a personage to serve their needs.
In any case, we must all remember that water is both our saviour and our curse. We cannot control the mighty rivers forever, so must live in such a way as to not draw their ire and still prepare for the days that the water will change its course. We have been thinking a great deal on this subject and offer these decrees:

All villagers must teach each other basic swimming techniques.

All villagers should keep a flotation device available.

The staff of Loyola Avenue must ask for widow’s walks or wrapping galleries to be built on all new buildings above one story.

Second and third floor windows must have an exit path.

Those villagers with means should store expandable ladders of 15 feet or more on second floors or in attics. Rope ladders are more useful but must be inspected regularly for strength. (DW-I mentioned the usefulness and long life of nylon rope, an idea which pleased the Duchess and she begged me to insert the word nylon to the decree above.)

All villagers should make the acquaintance of at least one neighbor who seems to be alone and then to be responsible for that person in times of environmental or federal crisis.

After her decrees were stated, she rose, bade me to follow her into her library and showed me a brass bell and a beautiful old oar from a small boat. She told me they had been given to her by a grateful river pilot many years ago. As she went to ask Maude to show me out, I noticed an first English edition of Mark Twain’s “Life on the Mississippi” near the items and surreptitiously opened it to find this confounding inscription:

To the gracious lady downriver who watches over us all. Mark Twain

To read the original post explaining our Duchess:
Duchess

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French Market public notice

NOTICE: Amplification no longer permitted at Washington Artillery Park

As of May 13, 2011, the French Market Corporation no longer permits use of amplification for performances at Washington Artillery Park. Acoustical performances may be allowed upon review of information provided by artists and musicians. All musicians and artists must put their requests in writing to the French Market Corporation at least 48 hours in advance to request permission to perform.

Permission to perform on any other part of French Market property (Dutch Alley, Dumaine, along Decatur, at the Farmers and Flea Markets) must be issued by French Market staff. During special events and organized performance times and in specifically designated venues, amplification may be permitted. This is always up to the discretion of the French Market Corporation.

All musicians must have a PERMIT TO PERFORM signed and dated by a staff member (at this time, The Marketing Director) in order to perform on French Market property.

Inquiries should be directed to Amy Kirk via email akirk@frenchmarket.org to request permission to perform.

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Any addition to Antoine’s is welcome

On Royal Street, there are some truisms:
1. stuff is expensive.
2. shade is unlikely
3. good public places to sit are taken quickly by musicians and audiences.

So, every time a new place that seems like it might balance one, two or all of the above, I make a beeline for it. The latest is Antoine’s Annex, the coffeehouse brought to us by our oldest restaurant. Just as the Hermes Bar has been such a hit (their newish bar with street entrance which has available Antoine’s appetizers on their menu), it’s likely this Royal Street annex will be too.
I have gone three times since it opened, and I will say the early excitement from the staff seems to have waned. They spent loads of time explaining the pastries back in the day and proudly showing the place itself. Of course, it was a bit much to take when one just wants an espresso and a seat but it was still appreciated.
The pastry case has gotten lighter or has less choices. I mean I didn’t count them, but I remember 2-3 things the first few times I thought looked interesting (and bought one once I remember) but the last 2 times nothing appealed from the case. And I believe it’s all done in-house too so I hope they continue to push the boundaries on pastries- especially with Croissant d’Or’s new owners disappointing so many locals who used to get their croissants, Napoleons and baguettes on Ursulines.
Please Antoine’s Annex, go a little crazy and wow us on the desserts.
The coffee was good; it’s true that cafe au lait is a tough mistress to master in New Orleans, as locals have so many memories and places with which to compare it. I am always unhappy when coffee is served from airpots, as it means it is meant to stay hot longer than it stays fresh in those things. I did see a nice steam but again, am not sure baristas can tell by eyes only when the temperature is perfect as the milk needs to be just below boiling for locals. Their espresso is also fine or good enough (I wonder about the quality of the beans they use), and in all cases the cups used are right and lovely and not just heavy generic coffeehouse stock. And the many flavors offered for espresso was a nice touch.
As for the gelato, they looked okay, but I so appreciate the La Divina local fruit gelato or Brocato’s ice cream, that I have a hard time accepting their small selection as the best they can do. But I promise to come back on a hot evening this month and try one fair and square.
The real treat is the decor and work put into the place. Beautiful. As Royal is as good a place as any to people watch, sit and do that.
Their patio is fine too although it would be nice if the staff would take 5 steps to the street to accept their mobile phone calls and leave the small outside area for sitting and face-to-face level conversations.
But I say let’s keep going and simply ask for more from our Antoine’s. They can handle it.

a nice respite from the street while staying in touch with it.

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Doctor’s Offer To Save Le Petit Turned Down – New Orleans News Story – WDSU New Orleans

Doctor’s Offer To Save Le Petit Turned Down – New Orleans News Story – WDSU New Orleans.

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walk. click. walk, click, click.

Heard about an inventive name for a website-a pretty good one at that: Through The VieuxFinder is a creative effort with a yen for our city and time to help you discover it. They will take you out side by side with professional photographers and give you a walking history lesson while using your camera.
Make some time in your week, take the real camera out of the drawer, leave the smartPhone at home and go learn some tricks to shooting good photos.

VieuxFinder.com

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Oh we live on the water by the way

In case you forget that the reason for the city to exist is for access to the mightiest of our hemisphere’s rivers, Big Muddy will remind us later this month.
The water should crest less than a few feet from the top of the French Quarter’s/Uptown’s levees in about 2 weeks. This is a map that shows where the water will go when they open the Morganza Spillway . Both spillways (Bonnet Carre opened today) are opened to relieve pressure on our levees and will result in loss of farmland and fish this year with the intrusion of fresh water into the brackish water.